Beyoncé, Renaissance and the single earring
Here's what brought me to falling in love with the single earring
Commenting on the latest celebrity looks isn't really the focus here, but it is goddess Beyoncé herself.
Jewelry writers have been talking about the carats featured at the first show of the tour and not much beyond (not yet, at least). Even the brand behind the tour, Tiffany & Co., disclosed very little information about the jewelry used—some custom, some archival, some for sale. The only item that was more broadly covered was the custom-made earpiece, encrusted with 4.5 carats of white diamonds.
The critic's silence added to the fact that she has been wearing different looks and accessories for each concert makes me wonder if there are any special jewelry releases coming soon. In the meantime, let's dive into an earring that touched my heart in a way I didn't expect, and maybe it'll get to yours, too.
Single ear, oversized, completely covered in diamonds: the model is also custom and belongs to the Tiffany HardWear style, characterized by gauge links that represent the power and architecture of New York City. The earring was worn with the bodysuit by Courrèges, a brand I mentioned in the article Feast for the eyes, Fall 2023.
On Tiffany's website it is possible to find a smaller but similar version, the Link earrings in white gold a pavé diamonds, that she wears on different looks.
Beyoncé has taken us out of the pandemic cocoon with a joyful work of art that encourages us all to feel liberated. The Renaissance album and tour make several references to LGBTQ+ culture and history, as well as Afrofuturism and the disco era.
Perhaps the most prominent reference is Studio 54 in New York, which is clearest in the use of the mounted horse, as Bianca Jagger did in the 70s. The club was frequented by Diana Ross, Cher, Andy Warhol, Paloma Picasso, Grace Jones and Elsa Peretti.
Asymmetry as a metaphor for defiance
There are indications that earrings are the preferred place of adornment from a world-historical perspective, as they don't limit movements too much and are easy to attach or pierce with something.
Added to that, ears possess the potential for profound symbolic and metaphorical expressions. During the Classic period of the Maya civilization, they were regarded as miniature gateways to the inner human body, transmuting the sounds experienced by individuals into sacred phenomena. For that reason, they wore finely decorated jadeite earrings. In the Byzantine realm, the auditory role of the ear evoked notions of compliance, ethical harmony, and appropriate societal conduct.
So when playing with the symmetry of the two ears, it's natural that cultures will tend to perceive it as a nod to nonconformity, challenge, or a sartorial statement.
Charles I, a 17th-century king, is remarkable by his enduring fashion legacy, especially the very large pearl earring he wore on his left ear from youth to death. Although it was not common at the time, writings indicate that the style was seen as a symbol of courage, a great flex.
—Sidenote, pearls in particular were extremely rare until the cultivation technology invented by Mikimoto in the late 19th century. In general, because they are relatively sensitive to mechanical shock and chemical wear, pearls are best for jewelry close to the face. So, when a large pearl was found, in addition to being difficult to pair with another, it made perfect sense to use it as a pendant or asymmetrical earring. This is a good tip for using unique gems.
Single earring has long been embraced by the LGBTQ+ communities, where different ear choices hold distinct meanings. The choice of which ear to wear the earring was often associated with coded messages such as being gay or lesbian, known as the “earring code”. This practice emerged as a subtle way for individuals to identify and connect with others at a time when open expressions of LGBTQ+ identity were met with greater societal resistance.
Now back to Beyoncé, reviving signifiers of gay culture seems to be the main point of her styling decision. It's not about restoring rules of course, but an homage, a beautiful invitation to nonconformity and expression of an authentic self.
Nowadays, donning a singular earring is more often a simple matter of personal preference and style, other than any profound significance. At the end of the day, it's mostly about adorning oneself in a way that authentically reflects their aesthetic sensibility.
How I've been thinking to wear it
For instance, my personal interpretation is that asymmetry is movement and movement is energetic and sensual.
In a very practical view, the idea of a single earring attracts me for 1. Wearing heavy cocktail earrings and being able to alternate them from ear to ear through the night, and 2. Being able to wear earrings that I lost the other one in the pair. As I was writing this, a friend pointed out another important consideration: he was planning to have one ear pierced after the other, to make it easier to sleep while healing.
A styling tip would be that if the earring is really big, consider wearing adding a small stud to the opposite side to bring a little balance and a sense of intentionality. I'm sincerely starting to get the appeal of it but would consider style and styling that doesn't make me feel like I'm wearing one side because I lost the other.
Good sources: some stores sell them separately, such as Catbird. Plus, it can be a good moment to dig into vintage shopping or family costume heirlooms.
Here's a board of examples that have been living in my mind:
From left to right, top to bottom: Ju Valadares, Beatriz Jardinha, Ana Khouri, Innan, Atelier Paola Orleans e Bragança, Sophie Bille Brahe, Alan Crocetti at Ssense, Jacquemus, Swarovski.
Thank you for reading, enjoy your week!
Signing off, with love,
Ísis
I’ve always loved the one earring look, though , like you, I prefer a complementary piece in the other ear, for balance. I’ve been toying with the vision of triple, long , loops of 2-3mm stones.