Feast for the eyes, Fall 2023
Crewneck-length necklaces, very-very-long necklaces, modern brooches, powerful cuffs, bold earrings and anklets.
This is the first time I have written about fashion weeks and jewelry. Let me start getting something out of my chest: I was one of those kids that loved reading Vogue magazine under the blanket. Some dreamy-kid part of my brain is activated through the vision of a runway. It's a very aspirational moment. It instigated me to look a certain way and imagine myself on the next step, the next phase—not necessarily about trend following, but a proposal and a translation of the spirit of the times we are living in.
Fashion weeks are this special juncture where all these creative people get together to both decipher and trigger the next steps of fashion. They're the ones proposing new products, but reviving old icons and developing new ways of styling. It's a moment of gathering tools for us all.
The recent fashion weeks were particularly relevant for jointly proposing a simpler approach to dressing. I feel that we have finally stepped forward out of the pandemic sense, and despite the wars and economic crises, we have entered recovery mode. Another influence is the change of creative directors in several brands (as with Burberry and Gucci), compelling the maisons to nurture their origins and symbols more actively, eliminating excesses and focusing on simplicity.
Not minimal, not simple. Simple can mean basic, minimal, maybe boring, maybe pretentious. Simplicity, on the other hand, is about refining and editing down to the essence. Simplicity is a form of freedom: we can focus our energy and attention and create space for the things that truly matter. This implies pieces of jewelry so well-defined that they manage to completely transform a look and mood.
Products are more focused on real life. Luxury is now more unassuming, and in some ways more powerful, mysterious, and sexy.
All that you say, I've seen some very beautiful and interesting things in line for the fall 2023 season, and I think you like them too:
1. Short necklaces, crewneck-length
This was the one seen the most, and it's probably one of the best as it works exceptionally well for transitional weather—when you're wearing a sweater or something closer to your neck to keep you warm, but you're not there yet for his scarf. You can wear it on top of a turtleneck following the neckline of your sweater, layering it under a buttoned shirt.
The first way to put it was a thick chain format, and Jil Sander did it the best. Bottega Veneta, Schiaparelli, Acne studios, Ganni, Nanushka and Chanel did it too.
The second one was through big pendants. The French Courrèges used it to fit the garment like a puzzle, genius! Louis Vuitton added pendants that look like musical instruments that somewhat resemble artists' jewelry. Such bold choices make someone look like a well-built character (an easy way to make yourself remarkable).
A classic idea with a new, subtle approach. Instead of layering all sorts of necklaces together, what is being proposed is that you layer one crewneck-length necklace with a very, very long pendant necklace. It has that je nes sais quoi that is needed to last several seasons. Who did it well? Holzweiler and Chanel. Etro opted for short ones, which is also interesting, as long as you don't get too bothered by the tangling.
If you're not into metals, or you like to adventure: an unusual material can do the trick. As seen in Versace, Zimmermann, Giorgio Armani, Hermès, and Jil Sander.
2. Very long necklaces
We saw a lot of sets of clothing: jeans-on-jeans, caramel-on-caramel knitting, and head-to-toe gray suits. A long necklace comes in handy to create some visual interest and elongate your figure.
Holzweiler did it with cords; Hermès went for a mid-chest pendant; Gucci styled brooches as necklaces and tied it all in an interesting manner.
3. Brooches
Brooches are having their moment for a few seasons now and even took over recent red carpets. It's a very welcoming jewelry piece for different ages and gender. Plus, as it's not directly in touch with a person or the body, you don't have to worry about allergies or heavy metals and harsh chemicals. That way, if it's pretty, it's good to go.
The trick of the season was that brooches were also used to manipulate the fabrics and change the garment. Some brands didn't use literal brooches, but the applications on fabric could be easily substituted by one.
4. Cuffs
Wear it and both arms matching or one side only. Layer it on over tops, jackets, gloves, or bearskin. Since the sad passage of Elsa Peretti, I've seen a crescent interest in cuffs as her bone iconic piece. She designed it for the powerful woman of day-to-day, and that's the deal.
When you wear it, you automatically look like you know what you're doing.
Bringing it back is the OG Chanel, but also Saint Laurent (most looks had cuffs), Schiaparelli, Versace, Acne Studios, and Giorgio Armani.
5. Bold earrings
There are basically three main groups of earrings: first, the ones that look straight from the '80s, mostly round, pinned in the earlobe, composed of metals and enamels.
Second, are the earrings that look like they developed from the Drop ones from Bottega. Almost a futuristic approach to the latter one: large, with tech, aerodynamic-like shapes.
Then, we have the classic hoops. The brands are all trying to make sure you wear the ones you have. Go big, go small, but don't leave them at home. This could be related to the exact reason why cuffs are back, that we're looking to demonstrate our power. This time in a quiet-elegant and objective way.
Honorary mention: anklet chains by Saint Laurent. It was those delicate chains over dark tights; a small detail that makes the overall look so sexy, as for balancing and contrasting with the cuffs and the large hoops. Chef's kiss.
Thanks for reading this far! If you have any thoughts or have been thinking about this, please do deposit your wisdom.
Sincerely,
Ísis M. W. Brennan