The thing that makes French cuisine exceptional is its logical approach and techniques.
More than just good recipes, the French developed foundational structures for sauces and key ingredient combinations, serving as a basis for creative culinary endeavors. These techniques are tools for creativity, forming a framework to achieve specific results.
Expanding this logic from food to fashion, I believe the French excel in devising recipes of all sorts, in the best possible sense.
I remember reading somewhere that Coco Chanel used to wear hundreds of organic and imitation pearl necklaces altogether, creating the accessory-heavy look she became known for. While she likely had strong theoretical reasons for this choice, it seems like her primary focus was on the impact of the final look.
Now, consider Virginie Viard, whose tenure as Chanel's creative director has received mixed reviews from critics but acclaim from buyers, who have seen each show in recent years face backlash for including pieces deemed unworthy of Chanel. The presence of basic items on runways has been described as "too Coachella, too Barbie, too Forever 21," (see this article by Amy Odell).
She sold final looks and she thought about her recipes, more than independent products. It was a pendulum between what could be easily introduced into everyday life and those that were already familiar and commonplace.
Nonetheless, Chanel's sales reports are better than ever. Among many reasons for this, including the significant price increases, kudos to Virginie.
The recipe logic permeates every aspect—be it the design and sale of jewelry, the fashion choices on the streets, or individuals' dressing styles.
It seems like we're all more interested in the how. I recently came across Total Rec articles here on Substack, which open up discussions about consumption and communication, particularly about the influence to buy versus the influence to wear.
Here's my perspective: People are placing more emphasis on learning and inspiration for styling their existing wardrobe before contemplating new purchases. Styling before buying.
With that being said, I've curated here my Parisian favorites based on their unique roles: jewelry as architectural elements, capable of crafting recipes that transform moods and outfits.
Choose a few from each category and the Parisian look is done.
Parisian look = some good base jewelry + some for the sauce + a garnish jewelry
Starting good bases, jewelry to be left on the body, which works in almost any look or occasion.
Parisians like layers of jewelry and lots of them at the same time (multiple rings, earrings, necklaces), and are always carrying at least a few items that never seem to be taken off their body. Some Cartier jewelry is very loved for this, such as the love bracelet and juste un clou rings. However, there are too many cool things in this world to stop there.
I'd go for:
Monsieur Paris for dainty and easy-to-stack jewelry,
Viltier for not-so-minimal geometric designs,
ALT for all jewelry really, but especially the thicker items,
Le Gramme for clean silver bracelets.
Especially ALT, which focuses on clean and comfortable designs. It has good prices and finishing, but more importantly, its product range is fantastic; They offer a gradient of thicknesses that give the same design freedom to adapt to different body types and comfort parameters.
The sauce, or the mood-of-the-day jewelry, serves as the perfect complement to the foundational pieces.
It adds a transformative touch, defining the essence of each unique look. In this context, incorporating silver pieces or even more affordable metals and alternative materials makes perfect sense.
I'd go for:
Charlotte Chesnais who makes ear cuffs like no one else,
Parts of 4 for powerful bracelets,
Goosens for a Chanel-esque aesthetic but without the logo everywhere,
Merci is a multi-brand store with beautiful curation, from everywhere and at affordable prices.
The garnish, or the inevitable conversation starter.
The element of surprise—the finishing touch that elevates the entire ensemble, akin to the cherry on top. These pieces are reserved for specific or special occasions, enhancing the overall look.
I'd go for:
Mellerio, self-titled, the oldest jewelry house in the world, since 1613. Jaw-dropping jewelry,
Oca, clean jewelry with more unusual techniques.
Some multi-brand stores stand out for their exceptional curation—a Parisian perspective on jewelry sourced from around the world, featuring numerous Brazilian and American pieces. You'll find excellent examples of both sauce and garnish jewelry.
Madlords for funkier pieces and secondhand,
WHITEbIRD for cosmopolitan jewelry (fine but easy),
Maison Auclert contemporary mountings of antique artifacts,
Ibugallery for state-of-the-art fine jewelry.
That's all for today! Thank you for reading this far. Enjoy your day and au revoir!
Isis
P.s: I leave you with a cute scene from my Parisian work desk.