Thoughts on the Cartier Love Bracelet
from a jewelry consultant perspective
Shopping for jewelry is a difficult exercise involving not only taste (love it or hate it) but a series of wearing and meaning considerations as well.
A friend of mine recently asked for my consultancy on the classic Cartier Love Bracelet—he is a very visually intriguing person, the type that stands out in the crowd (picture a mix of goth-tech-maximalist-latino-stylish man). His taste revolves around bold pieces mostly made of silver or something along the lines of Cartier's iconic pieces—for context, he loves the Trinity collection.
Since the more complex the taste, the more complete the argument must be, here is a series of considerations around this jewelry, so bear with me.
We call everyday jewelry a piece that makes you look interesting while fitting within the movements and activities of your day-to-day. They're more focused on elevating your style, and it can be something more traditional and stackable to a statement piece that represents your character in a beat. It may come as a surprise, but everyday jewelry is a recent notion: for a long time, finer jewelry was restricted to the female audience and was purchased for specific occasions/outfits, only.
In front of the movement that changed it all were the creations of Aldo Cipullo, a jewelry designer from NYC that worked with several big names such as David Webb, Tiffany & Co, and of course, Cartier.
He created a prototype of the Love Bracelet in 1969 and proposed it to the French maison. A piece for both men and women, clean and refined, secured with tiny gold screws. Beyond being made to be worn, it was made to be hard to take off; only with its very own golden screwdriver. The goal was to suggest an everlasting quality of love.
It falls within the type of jewelry that doesn't really fit within the whole of just everyday jewelry, despite sharing a lot of characteristics. What that means is the bracelet has more information as it is meant to represent something more specific. It designates a relationship of some sort, which could be a romantic one, an amulet for luck and protection, a religious or religiosity icon, etc. It's almost an alternative version of the wedding ring or one of those friendship half-heart pendants from childhood. They connect people and values. Does it make sense?
Here we go:
If you are thinking of buying one, the first thing to consider is the meaning: what is the occasion of the purchase? Who is gifting and being gifted? Is it a self-gift, celebrating a personal accomplishment?
Add to that those historical contexts that led to the creation of this iconic design. It represents a shift in how we adorn our bodies today, and also about fashion, lifestyle, gender, and freedom.
Second: expensive look. If it's for pure ostentation of wealth, unless you go on the very large and harder-to-get models, I find the love bracelet a little bit of a tedious choice. If that is the main buying factor, I'd suggest you ponder a more chunky design from Cartier or a piece from a niche brand that would do something more hefty and custom for you.
To show some brand names and update people on your financial status, please consider a certain level of eccentricity.
But this varies by person and style. For example, the NYC-based Stylist Jordanna Sharp wears the bracelet as a tool in building her classic, practical, discreet look. The quality and refinement are certainly noticeable, but a closer look is needed. I love that.
On uniqueness: the love bracelet has been all over Instagram and among influencers. It's almost a prerequisite of the clean-girl aesthetic partisans. As a parallel, the bracelet is the Birkin of jewelry, and like the Hermès bag, it is one of the most copied and counterfeit items on the market. That said, it's definitely a piece of public desire, and despite not being exclusive, it is an icon full of meaning and has a sense of cultural belonging.
To add a personal touch, Cartier's engraving services can include the unique touch you might want.
Use: It can actually replace a wedding band for someone who doesn't like it or can't wear it because of its profession (e.g. ceramicist or a surgeon) or body condition (e.g. finger swelling from pregnancy or from rheumatism).
Over the years, Cartier came up with many iterations and expanded the coveted Love bracelet—I'm sure you'll find a version that fits your needs. The advantage is that the classic screwed version offers an almost perfect fit on the wrist, without wiggling. You can stack it with other jewelry and watches without difficulty.
In terms of quality, it's Cartier. You will get the best-in-class sales services and support, and impeccable packaging.
They use the best materials available on the market: Love bracelets are all made in 18-karat gold, regardless of whether it's yellow, white, or rosé. The 18-carat gold works for two reasons: first, it's a solid piece, so we won't easily bend or change shape. Second, it will gain a beautiful shine over time that is inherent to a purer gold: a soft matte polish made by the wearer's skin or clothes.
Some of them are produced and Switzerland, Italy, or other locations, but they all carry the same rigorous quality standards by Cartier.
Beauty: it's absolutely stunning and easy. As said before, is not too feminine or masculine. It has one of the key Cartier visual symbols, the screw top, so it's identifiable while being subtle. You can add a few diamonds or stones, or you can engrave a few words on the inside. It's easy to make customization right and stunning.
Worth the price: well, you pay for the package, not just the weight in gold (even tho it’s robust solid gold). I find it to be a huge mistake to think of it strictly as a profitable investment. If you had to sell it after some time, you'll most likely be able to get scrap value for the metal. Do not expect to get much for the brand name or design work. If it's in pristine condition, you might get lucky selling it privately on social media or similar, but I wouldn't count on it. The brand does not offer a second-hand area yet.
Today, those who have money to afford a love bracelet are less willing to save a couple of bucks on a used piece. They go to the store to live the full experience.
This is the kind of thing that going to the store and buying it is a whole affair. The bracelets come in different sizes and are supposed to fit precisely. It can be screwed in your arm or just cuffed in, but either way, it's an act of dressing it up that informs the meaning of the product. Plus, is an expensive piece that is easily available to any new customer (in this case, not like a Birkin).
You may be wondering if you are convinced about whether you like it or not. Please find some alternatives for comparison:
From Tiffany, we have the Lock bracelet that has been a stupendous success in sales since its release last year. It shares most pros and cons with the Cartier bracelet.
In my opinion, the difference is that Cartier seems to be more established or a better fit for a younger audience (from 25 to 35 years old). Tiffany's marketing has been struggling in the past three years on refreshing the communication and making it more youthful.
From a niche smaller brand, this one from Nouvel Heritage is also in 18K gold and the design is exquisitely elegant.
There is a Brazilian brand called Trois Monceau with their brick bracelet. It's a more accessible price point as it's made of vermeil (sterling silver and a thick coat of gold).
But if you want to optimize for something unique, one way is something like the Papillon bracelet by the artist Claude Lalanne:
Last comment: When it was first released, some parts of the Love bracelet were completely removable and so easy to lose. If it is possible to revisit the design again, I'd love to see Cartier incorporating some sort of quick-release mechanism. This would come in handy to people who tend to imagine catastrophic scenarios (as I do) and are hesitant about a fixed jewel. Imagine being mugged and not being able to get it off, or if you needed to go in for emergency surgery and the hospital had to ruin the bracelet to remove it. Even though there are good iterations of the model, I still think the classic screw-closing ritual is the charm.
That’s all for today. We can talk about this type of iconic delight for days, so please message me or leave a comment if this sparked something in your mind/heart.
Yours sincerely,
Ísis