Spiraling

Cool women, a creative exercise, and spiraling jewelry

I moved to New York, a long-held dream. What I love most about cities of this size is that they force you into so many lives, where you’re constantly brushing up against other people’s thoughts, folding them into your own.

One of these encounters came at a panel I attended at the Salon, titled Creative Synergies: Blurring the Boundaries Between Design, Jewelry, and Art. Quick sidenote: it’s an event focused on design and art, typically centered around furniture, so I was thrilled to see jewelry included.

That’s Michele Oka Doner in the photo above, one of the panelists and someone I find absolutely fascinating. Her work, drawings, public installations, sculptures, and even jewelry, draw inspiration from natural textures and patterns.

Some of Michele Oka Doner’s works: Coral Reef collar necklace in 22k gold, a selection of brooches, a bronze and baroque cultured pearl brooch, and the Spring brooch with emeralds in raw gold.

There’s something about the way she interprets nature that makes it difficult to pinpoint whether her pieces were designed today, 1,000 years ago, or 1,000 years into the future. It’s not about copying nature but expanding on it in a way that feels so alive.

Her work is intimate, with a deep respect for the materials themselves. It’s the kind of beauty that requires time and contemplation, much like Pancália’s jewelry, with its ability to engage the eye.

Michele spoke about why we care so deeply about objects—whether they’re monuments, amulets, or jewelry—and how they connect us to something beyond ourselves. At one point, she mentioned five great natural patterns (I think that’s what she called them):

1. The spiral

2. The branch

3. The random dot

4. Classic geometric forms

5. The wave

I can’t believe I’d never heard of this before, and I can’t stop noticing these patterns everywhere. It’s such a simple yet intriguing perspective, and I’ve found myself actively searching for them in everything around me since.

The spiral, in particular, is a shape I’ve never been drawn to, but it’s the one I’ve come to appreciate the most through this exercise. The spiral moves in on itself, revisiting what came before but from a new perspective, always reaching outward. A quiet order within chaos—a rhythm to change. A symbol as powerful as described in A Descent into the Maelstrom by Edgar Allan Poe.

I’ve said this a few times in different ways, but I love the view of jewelry as a tool to make our moods, thoughts, and feelings tangible. It’s worn for the eyes of others, but very much for ourselves—plus the touch and all the senses enticed by wearing it.

All things considered, here’s a lineup of my recent favorite spiral-themed jewelry:

Let’s start with the OK pin often seen in portraits of Georgia O’Keeffe. Custom-made in brass by her friend Alexander Calder, it stayed with her throughout her life. Later, as her hair turned silver, she had a silver version made in India, which she wore from then on.

In a similar style, I like this Etsy suggestion made by Jenny Walton.

Speaking of chic, very chic: Mara Twist Earrings by the Argentine + New Yorker Rosario Navia. Special pieces that are easy to wear and go with everything, from everyday looks to a wedding dress.

When it comes to jewelry design, I have nothing but respect for the Bottega Veneta team, score after score. The Twist Cuff Bracelet deserves a special mention.

Another highlight from the Salon was learning about Fran Hosken’s work, thanks to Chip von Hardenburgh’s curation at Weinberg Modern.

Chip von Hardenberg is so painfully elegant that I have to leave this post of hers here (focus on the anklets!!!):

chipvonh

A post shared by @chipvonh

And to top it all off, I’ve been obsessed with this necklace by Renata Q. Imagine it over a thin turtleneck this winter—GORGEOUS.

I should talk more about Renata Q.'s work soon. Stay tuned :) Enjoy the rest of your week!

Looking forward,

Ísis